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  • D17 – Greeting Alpacas and crossing the Channel

    November 9, 2019 by

    The highlight of our farmstay is a hodgepodge of domestic animals. Ducks, goats, swans and two funny Alpacas! On the other side of the fence there is a table with stale baguettes. Soon we have a feeding party. We get a good downpour until we reach the port. A quick check by the French border… Read more

  • D16 – Ruminating in calm French villages

    November 8, 2019 by

    Somehow against all previous odds, we arrive early. The room is not yet ready so we wonder on this peaceful village, killing time. A contradiction, not the only one on our walk. In another timeline the serene pastures and nearby forest were the center-point of a bloody WWI battle (of Fromelles). Not as horrible as… Read more

  • D15 – Where we finally find the elusive Porcini

    October 26, 2019 by

    Waking up in a quiet town, local radio station with French pop hits and warm coffee. The forests are near so we decide to go for a stroll before driving to the next destination. Our route choice is pure randomness. After the mushroom failure of North Italy, surprisingly Yana manages to find the first (or… Read more

  • D14 – Vive la France!

    October 25, 2019 by

    Passing the border to France is so anti-climaxing that it doesn’t even register in. Drive drive drive ops suddenly you are in French soil. No Gendarmerie, no Louis de Funes, no baguettes nothing. Just some rainy weather. Total letdown. To protest we stop in a le Mc Donald and order le fille of fish and… Read more

  • D13 – Really, really, really ridiculously good looking

    October 22, 2019 by

    We wake up and our eyes still hurt from all the perfect landscapes. The smell of manure tries to balance it a little but it is still ridiculous. Damn you Switzerland! to vent our steam we stop in a picturesque turquoise lake fed by a frosty alpine river. I baptize myself for 10 seconds (tops)… Read more

  • D12 – Ridiculously good looking.

    October 22, 2019 by

    This morning we cross the border between Italy and Switzerland. Three passports (check), tree adequate crossing the border faces (check), greetings in any of the three languages (check). A jolly policemen with a gun asks us if we’re going to use the highways and redirects us to the office to buy a sticker for a… Read more

  • D11- Elevated

    October 18, 2019 by

    We decide to stay one more day in Northern Italy and enjoy the rugged mountains. After all when will we come back here again? (well definitely in August when it is prime Porcini season). Plus I still have mushroom fever so needed to hunt a little more in dense forests and lush valleys. Our host… Read more

  • D10 – Right Place Wrong Time

    October 13, 2019 by

    It’s time to get serious and head to the mountains. Searching for porcini spots I pin some random place on the map, somewhere North East of Milan. But first a stop for coffee and focaccia. Valleys give way to rugged mountains. We pass a lovely lake and see two guys preparing for spearfishing! Arriving in… Read more

  • D9- Take away Florence

    October 13, 2019 by

    Day 9 of our trip starts with arranging our next move. We agree to make a small detour to visit Florence and spend a night in Lentigione which will bring us closer to the famous porcini area next day. Being delayed by our frequent ‘let me just check out for a second’ stops we arrive… Read more

  • D8 – Autostrade Snails

    October 10, 2019 by

    There is no plan, we slowly move upwards, with a few twists and turns. Book a place for the next day, pet friendly 🐶 (check), 0-50 euros 💰 (check), including breakfast 🥐☕ (checkitty-check). Put the location on the GPS, pack our stuff and off we go. Some spatial neurons surely atrophy by this satellite convenience… Read more

  • D7 – Vineyard Hen Gang

    October 9, 2019 by

    Sipping our morning coffee we decide to brake the rules of our extremely strict schedule and stay one more night in Torre del Colle. If you find a place that makes you time travel you ought to spend a little bit more time there. Twenty kilometers away lies the town of Assisi, birthplace of San… Read more

  • Day 6 – Hunting the elusive Porcini

    October 8, 2019 by

    Yana might be driving but I drive her nuts scanning the passing forests. We do random stops into the most promising musky areas where mushroom could grow. This is a new hobby for me, but in many countries a time honored tradition. So far porcini are nowhere to be found, but we have many forests… Read more

  • D5 – Hilltop villages have the best views

    October 6, 2019 by

    We drive so slow the space time continuum elongates, making arrival times very very relative. According to the GPS 200km should take about two hours. We make them in six. Stop for a coffee here, for some mushroom hunting there. Go check that beautiful lake, get lost in a forest, get stuck behind a slow… Read more

  • D4 – Somewhere in the middle of nowhere

    October 6, 2019 by

    It was a pleasant morning walk, through the sunny roads of the deserted seaside resort of Torre Santa Sabina. Tendered houses, friendly dogs and Italian coffee. About the latte(r), I’ve order a latte and was observing the barista while he was working his magic. My order amused his colleague, who was observing me getting my… Read more

  • D3 – Sleepy sea side resorts

    October 5, 2019 by

    Spend the night in a car on a boat, with water above and below. Surprisingly calm, just a few sore limbs to stretch on the shore. The alternatives were not much better, a crowded ship and a deck that resembled more a swimming pool. Oh well, only 9 hours and here we are in Brindizi.… Read more

  • D2 – It’s raining cats and dogs

    October 5, 2019 by

    The stormy clouds carrying Autumn had finally reached Greece as we woke up to the smell of rain. Just a day ago we left Athens with +30 °C in our t-shirts and now we were glad that we’ve packed raincoats and fleece shirts. On our way a river broke its banks, flooding the road. While… Read more

  • Day 1 – So Long Athens…

    October 5, 2019 by

    You don’t really think about your stuff, until you have to pack them in boxes. The more you move the more you trim. A small vehicle makes for creative constraints. Even if you wanted to, you can’t carry much. Two backpacks, Strelka’s food and her pillow, a box with various stuff. A tent, two sleeping… Read more

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